As one of the volunteers for a charity outreach program (AVIF) this past summer, I feel it prudent to share my experiences in the vast and complicated world that is Africa. I arrived in Kenya mid July 2007 and met my fellow volunteers. I was both surprised and delighted to find people from all different nationalities had sacrificed indoor plumbing and air conditioning for a summer to help those in need.

After a brief introduction in Nairobi, we were split up into our separate groups and shipped out to various destinations across the diverse countryside of Kenya. I spent the next 4 weeks with 5 other girls helping create a summer school program at a private school in Uhayna (western Kenya). This in itself proved to be much more of a challenge than originally anticipated for most of us. I was surprised to find that the real difficulties lied not in any language barrier, but more in the cultural differences that separate Kenya from the rest of the industrialized world. The children were full of smiles and an innocence that spoiled, westernized children will never know. I found myself more than once having an Angelina Jolie moment, and wanted to adopt and bring home so many of the children at my school.

There were weekend bonding adventures in Kisumu between my group and the other volunteers that came to the “big city” of western Kenya to buy supplies and just hang out. It was great being able to swap both success and horror stories that seemed to transcend the reality of our short stay in rural Africa. On more than a few occasions, I caught myself and other volunteers saying something to the tune of, “What do you mean it's only been 2 weeks? I feel like I've been here forever!”

This was both a good and bad thing. With time being a very fluid concept in Kenya, (anyone who has ever taken a matatu know this), life itself appears to be in suspended animation. A constant clash of everyday struggles and triumphs that comes together in a vast and beautiful kaleidoscope.

At the end of my 4 week volunteer stint, I found myself wondering if I just dreamed the entire trip. It went by so fast and the image of some of the children from my school watching me leave on a bus (matatu) as they smiled and waved will remain permanent in my mind.

I would return tomorrow if I could.

As I left Uhayna, Kisumu and the shores of Lake Victoria behind me, I traveled back east in the direction of Lake Naivasha for a few days of self indulgence. That of course would be the wonderful safari I decided to take with a few of the other volunteers.

I arrived in Lake Naivasha on the back of a boda-boda (a bicycle), which was quite possibly the least dignified and exhausting entrance I've ever made to anywhere in my life! Something to do with being left at the edge of the highway, 3 miles from town, with 50 lbs. of gear strapped to my back like a pack mule seemed to make the short trip into town a bit more dramatic. And humorous for anyone watching, I have no doubt!

I was elated to find my safari guide in fine form, waiting for me at a very nice restaurant / bar where I got to relax and chat a bit. Well, I did most the chatting since my 8 hour bus ride back east was such an ordeal, I really couldn't shut up about it! Thankfully, Nigel (our fearless leader) was both indulgent and patient.

My evening accommodations in Lake Naivasha exceeded my expectations right from the start and the views from Nigel's summer home were to die for. After a lovely dinner, I pretty much fell into a much needed coma and awoke 10 hours later eager to set off for the Masai Mara. We collected a few more volunteers, killed another day in Naivasha and it was off to the Mara to see what has drawn so many from all over the world with its siren song. That wild and dangerous beauty that defies words and leaves one hungry to return and experience it all over again.

After a long drive south, we rolled into our camp in the Mara right at dusk and had a drink while watching a sunset that literally puts all others I've ever seen to shame. Our camp was luxuriously appointed and the staff was both attentive and friendly. I loved seeing our traditional Masai guards in their festive attire and armed with their traditional spears. The food was wonderful and I nearly ate myself sick after weeks of being a Spartan with my diet. It was worth every stomach cramp! After a pleasant night's sleep (with lions making enough noise in the distance to keep you wondering), we awoke at dawn to embark on our full day drive in the Mara.

We saw every type of wild life imaginable, most of them several times during the course of our day. My life felt complete after finally seeing Elephants at home in Africa. We experienced the notorious crossing of the Wildebeest at the Mara River and ate lunch on the Tanzania border. To say it was a day worth remembering would be like saying electricity had a mild impact on the modern world.

The following day we explored a traditional Masai Village and learned about their culture and how to make a Manyatta (in case you ever needed to know). We took a bush walk later in the day and ended our final evening by watching a thunderstorm roll into the Mara. It was an experience I don't think my time in Africa would have been complete without.

Throughout the safari, our guide was both polite and attentive. For people who like to get into trouble and shoot their mouth off like a loose cannon (that would be me), Nigel proved to be able to keep his wits about him while also keeping me from being eaten by anything large and scary. It was a fun and personable trip that felt more like a bonding experience, despite the face I didn't know either Nigel or his staff prior to the trip. Regardless, I'll be recommending his services in the future to anyone looking to explore the “Real Africa”.

Overall, this was a trip that I could relive a thousand times and it would always feel amazing. It's true what people say about Africa casting a spell over you. I'd lived in absolute poverty and spent fat cash on small luxuries, but there is something about the land itself that is truly magical. Kenya has managed to capture that magic in every blade of grass, every lion's roar and every smiling child as they watch you passing by. To go to places like Kenya isn't to take a holiday. To go there is to live .

Asante Sana,

Autumn Spredemann

Milwaukee, USA

(AVIF volunteer, summer 2007)